Change the Rear Hub Bushes

This article covers replacing all three of the rear hub bushes with PU bushes. I would not recommend fitting PU bushes to the radius arms as this is a difficult job and you won't notice any positive improvement, if anything this will be worse!! I would only replace the stock spherical joints with another stock Toyota spherical joint part No - T42210-14010. However, replacing the trailing arm bushes is recommended and will aid handling.

Why do this modification?

Replacing the trailing arm bushes will help the feel of the car and help to improve handling. The radius arm bushes won't help, unless they are badly worn. I would only replace the radius arm bushes if the stock spherical bushes had failed.

Things you should know before...

Is the rear suspension setup the same for the 165, 185 and 205?

Yes, pretty much...They all share the same setup regarding radius arms, bushes and trailing arms. The 165 and 185 have the same rear shock.

Torque specifications

All torques are in Nm

165 torque specifications 185 torque specifications

Why do this modification?

Can't I just buy a new bush?

Toyota will say "stock bushes are ONLY available with a new hub ~150 + vat", rubbish! If you really wanted to go to all this trouble and replace a worn bush with a stock item, then a bush from a Supra is an exact match part no - T42210-14010 - 24.82 + vat.

Rear radius arm hub bush Part number T42210-14010

Thanks to Scott Campbell for the picture



How did you replace the bushes?

Like this...

Jack up car. Remove rear wheel, not forgetting to chock front wheels, place axle stands under the car and release handbrake - be careful
View looking at back of hub. Notice there are 3 bushes to be replaced. It is a good idea to spray the nuts with penetrating oil and leave to soak
  Remove split pin, locking cap and undo hub nut. Note this will be tight and will require someone to stand on the brakes so that you can undo the nut
To remove the hub it is best to disconnect the ABS sensor from within the car, rather than try to remove it from the hub. Trust me I've removed them! Remove the rear seat by releasing the two catches on the front edge of the seat. Under the rear seat there is a small white plastic connector...undo it
Located on the front of the wheel arch is the mounting for the ABS sensor wiring. The bolts were seized and rusty. Best way to remove the cable is to lever up the clamps. Next pull out the rubber grommet and pull through the sensor wiring
  Undo the trailing arm (strut rod) - secured between hub and in front of wheel arch

Undo the front radius arm (No 1 suspension arm) - note this sets the toe in and out for the rear wheel. I didn't bother marking this up, seeing as though bushes etc will be replaced and will end up misaligned anyhow. This is awkward to remove and later replace. Some persuasion with screwdrivers / wrecking bars used as levers will help as this is recessed into the rear sub frame. Note that the fixing to the sub frame can only be undone BOLT end

Undo rear radius arm (No 2 suspension arm) - straightforward

It is preferable to remove the arms at the hub but in practice I found this difficult and undid the most accessible nut/bolt

* Note that the nuts securing the arms have a metal "wing" so that you can "simply" undo them from the bolt side. In practice these were ball bouncingly difficult to remove, a breaker bar and a length of scaffolding pole will be required to shift them. Note the metal "wing" simply bent under the pressure

Remove the brake calliper - undo 2 bolts at rear of disk and tuck the calliper out of the way

To remove the rear disk, remove the rubber grommet from the disk in order to access the handbrake adjuster. Align the hole with the adjuster, (need a torch), and turn the adjuster to withdraw the shoes from the disk. The disk can then easily be pulled free. Note the hub nut, nut retainer and split pin should already have been removed by this stage (photo taken during a later brake adjustment)
Remove handbrake brake shoes, and detach handbrake cable from shoe
Remove 2 bolts securing the handbrake cable and push cable out through the back of the hub
Undo the 2 suspension leg bolts. Take care that the bottom of the suspension leg does not hit or damage the CV boot - there's not much room. Do not push the bolts out from the suspension leg/hub with your finger, you might loose your finger!
Hub being separated from arms and legs, (note this picture shows the bushes already replaced)
  Next, simply pull hub free! (in true Haynes manual style!) Watch out for the CV boot, and don't pull the drive shaft out from the diff too far otherwise you'll be in for another job...You may need to separate the driveshaft from the hub, (it might be stuck), if so refit the hub nut and hit the end of the driveshaft with a rubber mallet. Use the nut and you won't damage the thread
Hub finally removed from car. Note that the wheel bearing has been covered over with tape. The bearing is an open cage type and as such is prone to attracting all sorts of crap including metal which will prematurely fail the bearing. Before covering up inspect the bearing/grease for debris and remove otherwise you will be doing all this again - oh so very shortly! Click here for an article on how to replace a rear wheel bearing
Picture of the wheel bearing just waiting to catch all the crap! Crap attracting area indicated...
First to be removed is the lower bush, not that it matters in which order they are removed. I found the best way to remove was to drill through the rubber to provide a little room for the rubber to flex. Then remove the top rubber lip with a sharp Stanley knife...
...and using a screwdriver inserted through the bush, hammer this through and out of the other side of the hub... remove the rubber bush
Next up are the two hardest to remove. Soak these in penetrating spray. They look part of the hub to start with, but they will come out with some "gentle" persuasion

First smash through the centre portion of the bush. This has a plastic mounting and is surprisingly difficult to break, but it will eventually come - hit it hard!

Apply heat to the outside of the hub and freezing spray to the inner side and hit the bush with a suitably sized socket. The bush will very slowly begin to move

A correctly sized socket acts as a drift and eases the bush down and out of the hub. The hammer method I found to be the only way as I could not get a suitable position in order to press out these bushes - the hub is an awkward shape!
The three removed bushes, note the lower 2 spherical bushes and the solid rubber bush
The three new bushes. A lot easier to fit than standard bushes!
One naked hub ready to be fitted with PU bushes. First insert one half...
Then the other...
And then the centre shaft
The whole bush should be aligned centrally about the hub and the centre dowel lightly greased to avoid squeaks
The finished hub
  Refitting is simply a reversal of removal! Good luck...
  • To remove a stubborn nut, soak with penetrating oil, hit with hammer (lightly) and clean exposed threads with a wire brush. If still stuck, apply heat to nut. If still no joy, heat nut, freeze thread and use an impact driver, (I didn't find this necessary). If all else fails cut or grind off the nut. If your lucky and have access to an air gun then use this...
  • The stone guard around the brake disk has probably been bent during the removal of the various arms and bushes - check this otherwise you will have an annoying scraping noise from the rear wheel
  • Clean the contact face of the ABS sensor, removing rust streaks and all metallic particles
  • Lightly smear copper grease onto the driveshaft splines to aid removal in the future
  • It is a good idea to apply thread lock to all the bolts during reassembly to stop the possibility that they can come undone
  • Fit the trailing arm first as this is difficult to align, then front radius arm then the rear
  • Do not over tighten hub nut, this will lead to premature bearing failure
  • Replace the locking cap split pin
  • Don't allow any contamination to drop into the wheel bearing...or you might be replacing a wheel bearing soon!

Any questions or comments then please feel free to e-mail me

Other jobs to do at the same time?


This article is intended as a helpful guide and shows how I replaced the rear suspension bushes. If you are in any doubt, or not qualified, do not undertake this modification, consult a qualified mechanic. Alteration of the suspension away from the manufacturers design is not recommended and is undertaken at your own risk!

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