Change 205 Super Strut Suspension

* This article is applicable to the 205 only - no other GT4 is fitted with Super Strut *

* This article details removal of the complete lower suspension for the Super Strut *

After some miles, (normally 60k-80k), it seems that the Super Strut suspension gives up and wears out. This normally manifests itself as clonks, creaks, squeaks, knocks, groans from up the front of the car as well as vague and sometimes unpredictable handling.

How can I tell if it's the Super Strut that is knackered and not something else?

If the SS is knackered then there will most probably be play in the suspension components - probably, but not always. There are a couple of checks you can do to try and indicate the problem areas.

If these checks don't show anything obvious then you might also want to check the anti-roll bar bushes, the suspension springs, track rod ball joints, shock absorber top ball joints and the shock top mount as this has a bearing inside that wears, but it seems very rare for this to wear that badly.

How do I know if I have Super Strut?

Only the 205 GT4 is fitted with the SS. Other Toyotas also feature this suspension arrangement, such as some Gen 7 Celicas, Levin and the 202. The 202 lower arms etc is the same as the 205.

OK I'm up for some free checks, what do you have to do?!?

• With the wheel on the car and the car jacked up, try to move the wheel from top to bottom and then from side to side. You are trying to feel for any looseness, clonks or movement, you are only looking for a small amount of movement so check carefully.
• Inserting a crowbar between some of the components and levering to check for movement may also help - there should be zero movement...
• Remove the wheel and grab hold of the calliper and try to rock this up and backwards, whilst feeling, listening and watching for movement in the suspension parts - you are mostly concerned with the figure of 8 area as this seems to be the most likely part to fail - see below.

Checking for wear. Arrow shows the direction to try and move calliper - there should be zero movement	When rocking the calliper inspect this area for any movement. If there is then strongly suspect the figure of 8 link

What parts are there in the SS suspension?

Have a look here for some pictures and a description of each part.

Why is it so difficult to find the worn component?

There are several "joints" for the suspension. For each front wheel your have:

The suspension is held together pretty tightly and just one dry/worn ball joint will moan like mad, maybe without obvious signs of movement.

What's the most common part to wear?

The figure of 8 seems to be the prime candidate for failure, and these can wear quite badly giving the majority of the problems. Opinions vary, but, I would always change the figure of 8 and the lower arm as both these components will probably have moved the same amount, but replacing the lower arm is a bit of a git of a job, and it adds to the expense considerably...you might want to chance just the replacement of the figure of 8.

Ok, what things you should know before

• You may need a press. One of my ball joints required 2 tons of pressure to remove. I managed to break 3 ball joint splitters and 1 set of 3 leg bearing pullers on one side before giving up and using a press...on a plus note the other side was MUCH easier to remove - it seems to be the luck of the draw how difficult it is to remove!
• This is a bit of a git of a job if the ball joints do not easily come away from the lower plate or the bottom of the shock absorber
• Have a look at the other jobs to be done at the same time
• The job took me approx 8 hours one side and 2 hours the other. With this guide it should take you around 1.5 - 2 hours per side
• I would suggest looking here at the parts before you decide to do the job

Parts to order

The shopping list will vary depending on how many parts you intend to change. The shopping list...

Torque specifications

All stated in Nm...

Super Strut torque settings

Tools

• Heavy duty Ball joint splitter - the scissor type with a bolt to remove the arms from the lower plate, (if you are lucky!)
• 3 leg bearing puller - to remove the figure of 8s
• 10, 17, 19 and 22mm sockets
• Breaker bar
• A press, (probably) - to remove the arms from the lower plate
• Pliers - for all the split pins to install and remove
• Blow torch
• Big hammer

	Jack up car, remove the wheel. Loosen each corner of the left and right hand side engine under trays where they attach by the Camber control arm
	Locate the figure of 8...
	...and remove the 2 split pins and 2 retaining caps. Undo and remove the 2 x 22mm nuts
	Attach the 3 leg bearing puller to the figure of 8 where it joins the bottom of the shock absorber, and tighten - lots
	Heat the figure of 8 and then strike the back of the shock to push this off the figure of 8 - this may or may not be necessary depending on how badly stuck the figure of 8 is. If it doesn't come off then tighten further, heat more and hit harder until it does come off!
	On the bottom of the hub is a plate onto which the camber control arm and banana bar attach...
	...the plate is attached to the hub by 2 bolts and a nut, loosen and remove these. Push the plate down and off the locating pin and you will be able to swing the bottom of the shock away and off from the figure of 8
	I highly recommend NOT trying to split the ball joints from the plate - they are commonly held very tightly in place. I removed the entire assembly and pressed these out. 1 of the joints took just over 2 tons to press out! You may be lucky in removing these with a ball joint splitter as shown but I doubt it! Even with the entire suspension setup removed and working in a vice some of these wouldn't budge! I'd plan on using a press from the outset...
	Undo and remove the bolt securing the inboard end of the camber control arm. On the drivers side this will foul the sump...
	...place a decent lump of wood under and across the sump and lift this up with a jack. This will push the engine up on its mounts and gain that extra little bit needed to remove the bolt. Careful not to go mad with lifting up the sump or you may crack the sump
	Push down on the plate under the hub and release this and push this up to try and make the banana bar level as this will help in a moment
	Undo and remove the 3 bolts, (1 long and 2 short), bolts that secure the rear of the sub frame to the chassis
	Note the presence of a bush. This will prevent you from pulling out the arm...
	...the bush sits inside the banana bar...
	...and it is wider one end that the other
	To remove the banana bar, lever down the sub frame and insert "something" to keep this under tension and away from the chassis - I used a cold chisel
	If you look closely at the banana bar securing arrangement you can see the metallic bush that runs through the rubber bush and into the chassis. Using a screwdriver push the bush up as far as it will go to create a little space below the rubber bush...
	...using a hacksaw cut through the metallic bush...then push the rubber bush down and cut through the top of the metal bush. This particular hacksaw is available through Machine Mart for ~£6
	With a bit of wiggling the banana bar will come out, leaving only the camber control arm to remove from the body.
	The space left without the banana bar
	Lever out the lower arm from the chassis and the whole assembly will come free and drop on the floor. I found this easy on one side and a real pain on the other; levering out with a crowbar may help.
	Refitting is simply a reversal of removal. Note when inserting the bushes for the banana bar, the tapered section is inserted first...
	When refitting the ball joints to the plate I found it easier to install the banana bar to the plate in the vice, torque up and insert split pin, and then install in the car, and then install the camber arm, torque up and insert split pin - but the choice is yours!

Any questions or comments then please feel free to e-mail me

Other jobs to do at the same time?

• Fit a lower ladder frame e.g. Cusco
• Replace the shocks and springs
• Change the brake pads and/or disks

Safety

• Always chock the wheels so that the car cannot roll forwards or backwards. Always best to do this on a flat even surface
• Always wear the appropriate safety equipment
• Always use axle stands
• Suspension is a safety critical component. Ensure all components are correctly assembled and all nuts and bolts are correctly tightened

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